0

In the back area of my Land Cruiser, I took conservative measurements. I wanted to be absolutely sure that it fit.

FJ_toolBox10.19.54-AM

I transferred the measurements to a sheet of 1/2″ plywood for the base.

FJ_toolBox10.20.12-AM

Initially I drew out “wings” for each side to fit the area behind the wheel wells. I eventually cut these off because I changed my mind about including them in the main structure. I cut the base out with a circ saw.

FJ_toolBox10.20.32-AM

I ripped some 3/4″ plywood down to act as the outer walls of the toolbox.

FJ_toolBox10.20.43-AM

I predrilled and screwed through the back panel into the side panels. I added glue to these joints before the screws.

FJ_toolBox10.21.01-AM

I cut and added (with glue) one more panel as a cross divider.

FJ_toolBox10.21.08-AM

I used a speed square to hold this piece perpendicular to the outer wall while screwing it in.

FJ_toolBox10.21.12-AM

I also added a short section to the center of the cross divider.  This also got glued and screwed into place.

FJ_toolBox10.21.42-AM

I added a bead of glue to the top edge of the whole assembly and laid on the plywood base.

FJ_toolBox10.21.49-AM

I screwed the base into all of the upright pieces which locked it together well.

FJ_toolBox10.22.03-AM

These screws were also countersunk, since this will eventually be the bottom face and they need to be flush.

FJ_toolBox10.21.57-AM

I screwed in 18″ drawer slides to both of the drawer areas.

FJ_toolBox10.22.12-AM

These sat flush with the bottom panel and the front, outer edge.

FJ_toolBox10.22.25-AM

Using more 1/2″ plywood, I cut down eight pieces to make two drawers.

FJ_toolBox10.22.48-AM

I ran each piece over the lowered blade to cut a small dado. I moved the fence over slightly and ran them all through again to make the dado a little wider.

FJ_toolBox10.23.02-AM

The dado needed to be wide enough to accept some 1/8″ plywood. I cut two pieces of it to the drawer bottom size.

FJ_toolBox10.23.12-AM

The drawers got glued and assembled. The bottom panel fit into the dado and I clamped the drawer to hold it together.

FJ_toolBox10.23.27-AM

I shot in some brad nails to hold it together while the glue dried.

FJ_toolBox10.23.33-AM

I sprayed the drawers orange and screwed on the other piece of the drawer slide. These were also flush with the bottom and front edges.

FJ_toolBox10.25.10-AM

I covered the drawer slides with painters tape and sprayed the whole toolbox black.

FJ_toolBox10.24.51-AM

While that dried, I cut down two more pieces of 3/4″ plywood for the top.

FJ_toolBox10.23.51-AM

On the top back panel, I found the center point and marked an area for a handle cut out.

FJ_toolBox10.23.59-AM

I drilled two holes with a large forstner bit, then connected them with a jigsaw.

FJ_toolBox10.24.27-AM

I used a sanding drum in my drill to clean up and smooth out the handle cutout.

FJ_toolBox10.24.41-AM

I cut two 3/4″ panels for the drawer fronts and marked a large rectangle in the center. This is the area to remove to accept the handles.

FJ_toolBox10.25.22-AM

I used a plunge cut router to clear out the material in that area. I made several shallow passes until I got to the correct depth.

FJ_toolBox10.25.35-AM

This opening didn’t need to be too exact, as the handles overlap it quite a bit.

FJ_toolBox10.25.46-AM

I added a piano hinge on the back of the box to mount the top door.

FJ_toolBox10.25.54-AM

I sat the box on it’s back sitting on 3/4″ scraps. This aligned it with the top panel so I could screw it to the piano hinge.

FJ_toolBox10.26.09-AM

There are a few different ways to mount these hinges, but this way leaves the top fitting mostly flush with the top edge of the box.

FJ_toolBox10.26.16-AM

The drawers slid right into the slides and were flush with the front edge of the box.

FJ_toolBox10.26.24-AM

I sprayed the drawer fronts and screwed in the handles using a speed square to keep them square to the edges of the panels.

FJ_toolBox10.26.40-AM

I added a 1/16″ spacer under the drawer fronts. Making sure the were centered, I clamped them in place to each drawer.

FJ_toolBox10.26.47-AM

Each drawer front got two screws (predrilled and countersunk) from the inside of the drawer.

FJ_toolBox10.26.52-AM

I cut a piece of a thick rubber mat to fit into both drawers and the back section.

FJ_toolBox10.27.05-AM

These pieces will help stop things from rolling as much and cut down on noise from the contents moving around.

FJ_toolBox10.27.16-AM

The top of the front section just got screwed into place.

FJ_toolBox10.27.22-AM

I cut two pieces of a ribbed rubber mat to fit onto each of the top areas. The mat wasn’t wide enough to cover both so I trimmed a piece for each panel.

FJ_toolBox10.27.49-AM

I put some construction adhesive along the outside edge (and randomly across) of each panel.

FJ_toolBox10.28.10-AM

I lined the panels up and pressed them into place.  After the adhesive was beginning to grab the rubber mat I trimmed off the overhang with a sharp knife.

FJ_toolBox10.28.23-AM

I used an X-acto knife to cut out the are for the handle.

FJ_toolBox10.28.38-AM

A little black spray paint covered up the exposed adhesive in the cut out.

FJ_toolBox10.28.43-AM

Originally I was going to add Velcro to the bottom of the box to hold it in place, but due to the weight and friction of wood/carpet, it stays in place really well on it’s own.

FJ_toolBox10.28.50-AM

I loaded up the drawers with some straps and basic tools.

FJ_toolBox10.28.56-AM

The back section will probably be for larger items when necessary.  I’m sure my use of it will change over time.

FJ_toolBox10.29.06-AM